EAS Calibration
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Thread: EAS Calibration

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    EAS Calibration

    The repair details page states that calibration should be done like this

    The system has to be calibrated after a sensor is replaced. Calibration can only be accomplished with the dealer's Test Book or equivalent (Rovacom or Autologic). Special spacers are placed between the axles and bump stops to achieve the correct height for each setting.

    But can it just as well be done with DUY woodblocks and RWS easunlock software?

    that's what i did, but i still have leveling problems.
    Range Rover P38 4.6 1999 HSE Prins LPG-3

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  3. #2
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Using the blocks is the best and quickest way, for sure.

    However, I've done it with a tape measure and Nanocom and am happy with the results.

    takes an hour to do all the settings, and the engine has to be running .....
    2000 HSE "Julian" on coils - work in progress
    2001 HSE "Sandy"on air.
    SAAB C900 Convertible 1993

  4. #3
    SITE ADMINISTRATOR RRToadHall's Avatar
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Ive done it by tape measure for years on folk's rigs. THe blocks simply afford you the chance to crawl under the rig numerous times at each corner and roll around on the concrete. I have used them twice and see little to be gained by them.
    Why don’t you ever see hippopotamus hiding in trees? ...because they’re REALLY good at it.

  5. #4
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    As Spriggy and RRTH said tape measure should suffice, but what are the height values you get for sitting on those blocks and what are the height of your blocks?
    Larry S
    1995 4.6 HSE

  6. #5
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    So there is no reason to go to the stealers for calibration

    i replaced all 4 height sensors and having trouble getting the vehicle perfectly level
    used eas unlock tool from RWS and both methods custom woodblocks/measured the corners but still the vehicle will not level perfectly.

    any idea what the tolerance is for the leveling i have like 0.5 to 1 cm difference
    thats bugging me.
    Last edited by RRToadHall; August 16th, 2013 at 08:53 AM.
    Range Rover P38 4.6 1999 HSE Prins LPG-3

  7. #6
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Hmmmm ..... I think that the increment is either 2 or 4 mm per bit.

    Certainly, you can't rush it as if you enter too much change to one corner in relation to another the system will revert to its stored values and you have to start again.

    So, just enter say 2 bits at a time and check the measurement.

    You'll soon get the hang of it!

    Do you have the wheel arch to hub measurements?
    2000 HSE "Julian" on coils - work in progress
    2001 HSE "Sandy"on air.
    SAAB C900 Convertible 1993

  8. #7
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    hmm the problem is not me taking measurements nor getting the right values in to the system,
    But the system maintaining correct heights.

    I did take the car to a independent specialist a year ago they were not able to correct the problem i've been struggling ever since.
    I did calibration numerous times with and without high blocks i understand the principles quite well.

    Still the car has the tendency leaning over to the right.
    so in trying to solve the issue i increased the height on the right with lets say 2 points resulting in a raize on both sides ??? tried to find a golden mid way but no luck
    strange or what

    I can not find any leaks but some times the car drop or raises a litle over night
    the ecu always says vehicle has moved
    on disconnecting the delay timer the car stays up for days
    i feels to me someting like the EAS ecu takes over doing it's own thing could it be broken.

    i wish i had a spare laying around
    Range Rover P38 4.6 1999 HSE Prins LPG-3

  9. #8
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Quote Originally Posted by SpiggyTopes View Post
    Hmmmm ..... I think that the increment is either 2 or 4 mm per bit.

    Certainly, you can't rush it as if you enter too much change to one corner in relation to another the system will revert to its stored values and you have to start again.
    it feels like the system is taking over
    but if you go to far the system puts the right numbers back does it not?
    i don't see that happen
    Range Rover P38 4.6 1999 HSE Prins LPG-3

  10. #9
    tih
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Quote Originally Posted by efarmer View Post
    so in trying to solve the issue i increased the height on the right with lets say 2 points resulting in a raize on both sides ???
    You should be aware that the height settings are treated differently at the front and rear. The rear end settings determine the left/right leveling of the car, and the front end is actually adjusted so that the average of the front wheel heights is equal to the average of their configured targets. If you think about it, it makes sense: even on level ground it's impossible to hit four arbitrary heights, so something has to be flexible.

  11. #10
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Yes, that makes sense, as the front height changes are more sensitive than the rear.
    2000 HSE "Julian" on coils - work in progress
    2001 HSE "Sandy"on air.
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  12. #11
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    I did read somewhere that it averaged the rear axle... doesn't really matter anyway.
    1bit =2mm

    Is the ecu saving your new bit readings?

  13. #12
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    I did read somewhere that it averaged the rear axle... doesn't really matter anyway.
    1bit =2mm

    Is the ecu saving your new bit readings?
    No absolutely not
    Range Rover P38 4.6 1999 HSE Prins LPG-3

  14. #13
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Very interesting idea/concept

    i have to say the rear is pretty stable in it's hight.

    although i am having trouble really understanding what you are saying and how to interpret it to my settings.
    lets give it a virtual swing:
    my front right is 0,5 cm lower than the left side, i should try and give the rear right a extra 1 or 2 points up

    Quote Originally Posted by tih View Post
    You should be aware that the height settings are treated differently at the front and rear. The rear end settings determine the left/right leveling of the car, and the front end is actually adjusted so that the average of the front wheel heights is equal to the average of their configured targets. If you think about it, it makes sense: even on level ground it's impossible to hit four arbitrary heights, so something has to be flexible.
    Range Rover P38 4.6 1999 HSE Prins LPG-3

  15. #14
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    No, I don't think so.

    leave the rear values alone if they are correct.

    Try to adjust the low front one up just a little at a time and save. It might help to raise and lower using the dash switch and then rechecking the height you just adjusted.

    Have you done check measurements at all the heights? That is, is your low height only occuring at highway height, for example, and all the other ok?
    2000 HSE "Julian" on coils - work in progress
    2001 HSE "Sandy"on air.
    SAAB C900 Convertible 1993

  16. #15
    tih
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    Re: EAS Calibration

    Quote Originally Posted by efarmer View Post
    although i am having trouble really understanding what you are saying and how to interpret it to my settings.
    lets give it a virtual swing:
    my front right is 0,5 cm lower than the left side, i should try and give the rear right a extra 1 or 2 points up
    No, not if the rear is actually level at the correct height.

    The thing to remember is that the car does not bend. For any combination of heights at three corners, there will be one specific height that the fourth corner absolutely has to be at. Now, the car almost never sits on a perfectly ballroom flat surface, so the preset values for all four corners will almost never be achievable at the same time.

    To solve this, the EAS will adjust the two rear corners to the preset heights, and then 1) adjust the front to approximately the presets, and 2) briefly open valves so air can flow between the two front air springs, evening out the pressure. The whole thing then repeats, until the measurements are sufficiently close, i.e. each rear corner is at the correct height, and the front ones are as close as they can get. If one front corner is three ticks above its target, and the other three ticks below, that counts as correctly adjusted.

    So, in your example above: if the rear is level and correct, one must conclude that the car is sitting on slightly uneven ground, and as long as the front is at the correct average height, you should leave it alone.

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