New Owner - Usual Problems

[BonesXJR]

Hi All,

Just picked up a 99 4.6HSE with 142K and thought it's about time I joined the forum to try and fix everything that's wrong with it. I bought it at a great price and sent it straight to the shop for a look over. $1k later, it's got all kinds of new stuff without any of the problems I took it in for being fixed. Oil change, new battery, plugs, valve block reseal (I'm glad this was done, but was it done right???) etc. The two things I took it for are the usual P0150, P0175, P1171 or P1174 (Can't remember which one). My mechanic said the O2 sensor is probably not the problem, but the result of another problem so he never even looked at them. He capped off two hoses going from the coolant reservoir into the throttle body and said this fixed it....for about an hour. Yesterday, I climbed under the car for the first time and saw the bank 2, sensor 1 had been spliced together like some cheap speaker wire. It had little crimp connectors like used in car stereo installations with no head shield. After seeing this, I ordered a new O2 sensor from AB so hopefully this will fix this problem....although from all the other posts I've seen, it probably wont...seems like these particular codes are stuck with these cars for life. Love that 6 city 10 highway MPG!!!!

The second issue is....you guessed it...the EAS. The mechanic resealed the valve block and this didn't fix anything. I need to go around the car with soapy water and try and figure this out myself before I blow another $1k. I raised it all the way up yesterday and pulled the delay timer and it sat there all day fine. Last night I put it back in, dropped it to the standard height, and pulled it again. This morning the whole car is on the ground. If I start it, I can drive most of the way to work (4 miles) before it will get to standard height. The compressor also seems to run every couple of seconds once it gets to regular height. It turns off for no more than 10-15 seconds at a time. The original mechanic said the bags look fine (although after not finding my O2 sensor or fixing anything I asked, I'm second guessing his ability) so where I should I look? Although not impossible, I find it hard to believe that all 4 bags are leaking, especially since it drops so evenly. Maybe leaking from the compressor or even the valve block still?

Anyway, I've been browsing this forum ever since I bought the car, but can't seem to find any definitive fix for either problem. I'm going to be taking the car to another shop in a few weeks, but I'd like to become a bit more familiar with the problems so I can provide some good feedback to the next mechanic in hopes of not running around in circles.

It's also got a few more issues that I'll dive into later. Brake accumulator, washer fluid low warning when it's not, obnoxious 10 or so beeps when I start it (possibly warning of the low washer fluid??).

Thanks for any suggestions and I appreciate all the past posts that have gotten me this far!

-Jon

[RRToadHall]

Our O2 sensors are not something that can be butcher replaced with generic items. Call Atlantic BRitish with your emmision family code (under the hood) and order in the correct O2 sensors.

Your suspension is sinking because you most likely have cracks in a bag or bags at standard height. At off road height the cracks seal and hold air. At lower levels the bags flex, let out air and you drop like a rock. Once one bag starts to leak the EAS lowers the suspension to keep the car level.

[getlost4x4]

If you can get an OBD2 scan tool you can get the codes yourself and scan the car. This will tell you what is broken and may need to be replaced.

your gas mileage seems very low. i'm not sure on your driving style, but I have a lead foot and still get 10-12 in town. How does the exhaust smell? it almost sounds like you may have a plugged cat, or bad O2 sensors since your mileage is so bad.

Depending on where you live, plugging the hoses to the throttle body heater could be good or bad. its really only a $20 part at most. I replaced mine since it gets down to 30 below zero where i live. I've had my throttle freeze open once, and it was not very fun.

Your mechanic sounds like a hack. Go elsewhere. Everytime i hear about these retards screwing people I'd like to shoot them. I work on people's vehicles out of my garage and would never feel right about doing that kind of work. get new parts, and have a happy customer always! do good work and always have customers who come back and refer others to you. Rant off.

Check out your air bags. I know that is where i'd look first if they are still original to the vehicle. Mine doesn't have that stuff so I don't pay attention to how to fixes on it.

[BonesXJR]

Our O2 sensors are not something that can be butcher replaced with generic items. Call Atlantic BRitish with your emmision family code (under the hood) and order in the correct O2 sensors.

Your suspension is sinking because you most likely have cracks in a bag or bags at standard height. At off road height the cracks seal and hold air. At lower levels the bags flex, let out air and you drop like a rock. Once one bag starts to leak the EAS lowers the suspension to keep the car level.

As I mentioned, I've already ordered the sensor. I also mentioned that I've disconnected the delay timer so the suspension will not self-level. It's either leaking from all 4 bags, which I doubt, or it's leaking from somewhere else like the compressor or valve block would be my guess, but I'm still reading and learning about this system with every post.

[Sean Ehtoz]

My mechanic said the O2 sensor is probably not the problem, but the result of another problem so he never even looked at them. He capped off two hoses going from the coolant reservoir into the throttle body and said this fixed it....for about an hour.

You are entering the real of the unwell...with the coolant quick fix that mechanic did! Get that put right first...in correct cooling/heating of the top end of the engine will confuse the hell out of the fuel management system. GET LOST is right walk away from that guy fast...and TOAD HALL is on the right track- get the right part OEM RR.

With regard to your EAS check this guy out he has a great/user/driveway friendly with some buddies article where you can prove out the mysteries of the saggy baggies. Most of the answers are cheap and very self doable once you have the Intel. His name is Eliot:http://mez.co.uk/p38-eas.html Check out his whole site very dialed in man.

[RRToadHall]

Slow down Sean. Bypassing the throttle body has absolutely NO impact on the top end cooling or the fuel management. It is a common procedure on P38s.

[BonesXJR]

From what I've heard, the coolant lines are only really necessary if in freezing temperatures. In sunny Southern California here, I doubt my throttle body will ever freeze. On another note, however, since it was leaking and essentially sucking coolant into the engine, I'd bet that this could have screwed up the O2 sensor. Between the coolant coming in and the shady wiring of that O2 connector, I'm hoping that these two fixes get rid of the problem. Since I bought the car as-is, I've yet to smog it as it obviously won't pass right now. It brings me to another question: Once I change that O2 sensor, can I take it straight to the smog place or do I need to do a certain amount of mileage so the ECU updates?

On the suspension side, I'm just going to take some soapy water to the whole thing I think. Too bad it only leaks in standard position and not raised as it would be much easier to get under there with it raised...

[LarryS]

On another note, however, since it was leaking and essentially sucking coolant into the engine, I'd bet that this could have screwed up the O2 sensor. Between the coolant coming in and the shady wiring of that O2 connector, I'm hoping that these two fixes get rid of the problem.

Its been awhile since those lines leaked on mine so i might be mistaken but i think theres no way for coolant to get in that way its just heats the underside, its solid metal. i think you have to find another source.

[triplb25]

Far as I can tell the leaking throttle body heater would not do anything other than spill coolant on the outside of the engine and make for a smelly mess... I 100% agree with Toad; there is no "real" reason that this issue would cause any problems with the fuel management... Highly suspect diagnosis...

[Scotty]

As Carl said...

[spikemd]

All good advise above.

Before you go any farther, make or buy a cable and download RSWSolutions EAS Unlock software onto a laptop. You will need a way to reset your suspension if you get into a hard fault. Also, go through each of his videos to see where to check for air leaks. Once one airspring leaks, they will all leak shortly. Best to replace all of them at once. While you are at it, be sure to replace all the o-rings in the system. FourPoints4x4 is still selling o-ring kits. Get one. I would also recommend getting a compressor ring for the EAS on ebay. My buddy just put the 'red one' in from Denmark and it works like a champ.

Go to RSWSolutions and review each video here to understand EAS. It really is not too complicated:

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.ph...id=9&Itemid=67


Before you go spending any more money paying someone else, learn how to diagnose the vehicle yourself. Spend your money on tools and equipment rather than some hack mechanic trying to do a quick fix. You will soon spend more than the truck is worth if you have to take it to a mechanic all the time.

[BonesXJR]

Thanks for the feedback guys! I'm fairly mechanical to some degree so I don't mind at all tinkering with this thing myself. My O2 sensor and rear pads will be here tomorrow from Atlantic British, but I'm out of town for the next couple of weekends so I can't start just yet. I was pretty suspect of the "coolant being sucked into the intake" as well. As far as the EAS, I've been watching videos and reading other posts for days and I can honestly say that I think I could rebuild the valve block (although I've paid for this to be done already so we'll see) and probably change out the air springs as well. The only thing I can't seem to figure out is depressurizing the system without the jumpers. I read somewhere that there is a bolt that can be unscrewed. Once the car is jacked up, do I need to depressurize it or can I just pull the line off the spring (watching my eyes of course) and let it deflate for removal? I can honestly say that with the number of posts and videos here, I'm becoming more and more familiar with the system. My only fear now is that everything will need replacing!!!!

The only other question I have is....even if the bags leak and the car drops to the ground, shouldn't the compressor still maintain it's pressure? I'm wondering if once one thing leaks, does the entire system loses pressure or do I likely have a leaking bag AND a leaking compressor?

Thanks!

[RRToadHall]

Depressurizing the system is a matter of using a paperclip in the connector. I'll try to remember to pull up the home page with the jumper info. Naturally most folks, including me, go the route of just yanking air lines. Do so at your own risk and with ear protection because the bank and hiss is mighty loud. It's great for scaring whomever might be lurking around the shop to say howdy or get under foot.

[John W]

Thanks for the feedback guys! I'm fairly mechanical to some degree so I don't mind at all tinkering with this thing myself. My O2 sensor and rear pads will be here tomorrow from Atlantic British, but I'm out of town for the next couple of weekends so I can't start just yet. I was pretty suspect of the "coolant being sucked into the intake" as well. As far as the EAS, I've been watching videos and reading other posts for days and I can honestly say that I think I could rebuild the valve block (although I've paid for this to be done already so we'll see) and probably change out the air springs as well. The only thing I can't seem to figure out is depressurizing the system without the jumpers. I read somewhere that there is a bolt that can be unscrewed. Once the car is jacked up, do I need to depressurize it or can I just pull the line off the spring (watching my eyes of course) and let it deflate for removal? I can honestly say that with the number of posts and videos here, I'm becoming more and more familiar with the system. My only fear now is that everything will need replacing!!!!

The only other question I have is....even if the bags leak and the car drops to the ground, shouldn't the compressor still maintain it's pressure? I'm wondering if once one thing leaks, does the entire system loses pressure or do I likely have a leaking bag AND a leaking compressor?

Thanks!

The compressor and the airbags are "seperate systems".The compressor is the air supply side and pumps the air into a tank.When the pressure in the tank reaches approx 150psi ,it signals the compressor to stop pumping.

The EAS ecu then uses the air in the tank to inflate an airbag or bags as required to maintain or reach the commanded vehicle height.Of course the ecu can also let air out of the airbag/s to lower the vehicle as commanded.

During this time the compressor is not required.Only when the tank pressure drops to approx 125psi does the compressor switch on and raise the tank pressure back to approx 150 psi.
This is a simplistic view which I think gives you an idea of how it works.

[wreckrunner]

If you want to take a ride out to me in Yucca Valley near Palm Springs I would be more than happy to go through your valve block with you one Saturday or Sunday morning! I have bypassed my throttle body heater and regularly go to play in the snow up around Big Bear and have had no fuelling problems whatsoever! Sounds like your mechanic should stick to saggy Lincolns! lol