This will all make you laugh...spectacular electrical brainstorm. I need advice!

[RRToadHall]

No disrespect at all taken. I just wish we could find an someone outside North America that would be an active moderator so we could have better coverage.

[benji]

My apologies Martin, I didn't mean to cause any offence. I was looking at the 1999 ETM last night and figured thats what you meant.

FYI Lockie, fuse 20 runs off MF5, and is a direct link, meaning there is no switching stuff in the BECM that turns it on or off.

Now for something that'll make you laugh... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcCy1GWkaDc

[marty_nz]

Hey, Benji - no offence taken!! I was a bit confused by it, as I naturally looked at the owners manual and that's what it said... THEN I noticed that I didn't have the early version of owners manual in my RAVE, so delved into all the ETM's I originally looked in my normal one (for 1999 on - as I've got a 2001).. It was only after comparing all 4 ETM's that I found that they sly buggers at LR changed what the MF's did from '99MY on

re the video... nothing like pulling the BeCM apart in the middle of a forest/trail somewhere

Cheers
Martin

[Lockie115]

The update as promised....

The BeCM, when taken out was dry, and in pretty good order. I followed the advice pages, and checked inside, and found a small amount of corrosion around the plug relating to the transfer case ECU. Since this is working, as far as I can tell, I cleaned the grot off and replaced the BeCM.

I have cleaned and tightened all of the ground points.

What now happens when I turn on the ignition is:

Right Rear window opens, and will not shut.
There is a spinning sound from the area of the starter motor, but nothing else. The engine is certainly not cranking.
Fuel cap will not open.
Rear tailgate will not open.

I am still investigating the wet carpets, but the give-away is that the header/overflow tank on the cooling system has been mysteriously emptying itself for some time - I thought it was a hose problem, but the water in the cabin almost certainly came from the cooling system.

What hacks me off is that I have numerous bills for the things like replacement of the O rings, about 3 years ago, all done by the same main dealer. Just about every known Rangie fault had been addressed by the previous owner, and yet here I am with O Rings, BeCM, etc etc all on the blink....Still, at least I have the chance to keep this forum entertained.

[ytt105]

I'll raise the issue again.
What is the voltage of the battery at complete rest. What is the voltage of the battery after runnning some stuff for half a minute and then resting it for a few minutes.

[Lockie115]

I'll raise the issue again.
What is the voltage of the battery at complete rest. What is the voltage of the battery after runnning some stuff for half a minute and then resting it for a few minutes.

I cant start the engine - so I cant do the electrical sticky. Voltage has remained steady at 12v, even after turning the engine over, etc etc. In any event, the very great Rick-The-Pick now has the BeCM on the way to him via the Greek postal system, so we may get a better idea in due course.

[996TURBO]

12v is not enough, you need at least 12,5.
My BECM acts funny when i'm under 12v (12,8 IIRC)

[Lockie115]

OK - what most other folk are saying. Will see what the verdict is in the BeCM....and, of course, if it ever stops raining, I will be spending a happy day tracking down the O rings...if they are the problem. Quite keen not to find that when they were replaced last time, the plastic holder didn't get cracked by over tightening.....

For what it is worth, when the Rangie was working, she was great on the mountain tracks in Crete. Missing my Series III though......

[Lockie115]

And a quick update...

Following the O Ring Sticky, I replaced the little blighters....replaced 2 years ago, and as hard as rock when I got them out. Didn't have to saw the HEVAC duct, or take the dash apart, but did use some brute force on the duct. Provided you are careful, it is possible even for a klutz like me to do the job.

BeCM went to Callrova. It was a basket case, but they have rebuild it within the price quoted, even though there was more work needed than originally thought.

BeCM on its way back to Crete.....so hopefully I will plug it in, get her started, and there will not be any drips from the O rings...and, no, I haven't put everything back as it was before checking for leaks under pressure....

A huge vote of thanks to the Forum community for all your help and support......

[Jos Geuze]

Hi

Get o-rings from the material VITON. These are about 3x more expensive but are designed for high temperature applications and will stay soft and seal for a much longer time and will outlast your car. If you use the normal nitrile rubber o-rings you could face the same problem again in another 2 years.

Regards

Jos

[Lockie115]

Thanks Jos - I'm ahead of you on that one. Did some thinking, especially about the heat conductivity of the aluminium pipes, recognised that we are dealing with a pressurised hot water system, and got some O rings from a heating and plumbing specialist. I see no reason to buy Land Rover parts when they are so demonstrably inadequate.

Regards,

Brian