Doors lock and unlock while driving - Page 2
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Thread: Doors lock and unlock while driving

  1. #16
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    I believe that is correct Dan. If the batteries have died or are out of the fob for two minutes or more, a re-synch may need to take place.

    After reading Toadhall's response to my question, while I was lubing the latches with wd-40, I decided I'd work the passenger latch up and down and open and close the door several times to try to restore a potential lost contact...or something! After working it several times, the latch worked well and lo and behold, the courtesy lights began to work again with the door. I opened and closed the door several times after letting the lights go out...and the door once again activated the courtesy lights and the puddle light. I was ecstatic and knew my wife would be so pleased. An hour later, picked her up at work and once again the passenger door latch would not activate the courtesy and puddle lights. ****!

    The next day, I picked up some silicone spray and was respraying all the latches. As soon as I sprayed the passenger latch, the doors locked and the alarm starting sounding off. After deactivating the alarm with the fob, the activation of the courtesy & puddles lights by the passenger door was once again working. Several tests in the next few minutes...and it worked each and every time. A couple of hours later, we went to take a short trip and once again, no lights activated by the passenger door. DADGUMMIT!

    I've since learned thru trial and error that what I am doing when spraying the latch and working it is that I am actually working it up and down (locked, unlocked) to the point to where the micro or thermal sensors overload and interrupt the system. As soon as this happens, the courtesy and puddle lights start to work again from the passenger door. As soon as the system would reset itself, the lights would no longer be activated by the passenger door.

    So, I am wondering if there is a way, or need to synch the latch/actuator for the passenger door?

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  3. #17
    SITE ADMINISTRATOR RRToadHall's Avatar
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    The alarm system does a self test each time you lock the rig. THus the reason for a beep when there is an alarm fault which in turn keeps the system from arming. SO to answer your question, no, there is no need to synch a latch upon replacement or working on one.

    If you have a failing micro switch you are playing with fire by repeatedly lock and unlocking the rig. The resulting power spikes and chance for a short is just begging for a disabled engine and locked out BeCM. It may seem like a great idea to spray things down and save a few bucks but it really is courting disaster given the symptoms listed. Unless you have an obvious loose connection or damaged wire please replace the latch before you end up many hundreds of dollars for BeCM unlocking, time down and of course the latch you should have just replaced in the first place.
    Sucking at something is the first step to becoming sorta good at something.

  4. #18
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    Thanx for the additional information RTH. I guess I better just bite the bullet and find a replacement latch...or locate the shorted wire.

    Thanx--tom

  5. #19
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    Well, today was the day...day I finally, following ToadHall's advice, just bit the bullet and tore into the door to address the passenger door latch problem I was having. I should first say that I had half-hoped that when I discovered a long flat ground wire/ribbon that ran from the passenger side of the engine bay to the back of the engine and was barely attached, that I had hoped that it was somehow related. I don't know why the bolt attaching the ground was about 1/2 way out, but after working to get it tightened down, I traced the ground wire only to find that it was attached to the hood. The hood (bonnet)? There are no electronics in the hood that I am aware of, so why must it be grounded? Oh well, now the ground is tight.

    The Rover gods were with me again today. I removed the door panel without breaking any of the fasteners...only to find that I wasn't the first to be in the door. Oh well, 9-year old vehicle...no surprise. Checking the bottom of the door the only goods yielded were a nut and wire clamp. Searching, I didn't locate where the nut was missing from, nor did I find where a wire clamp was missing. Next I inspected the wiring. What I did find was that the wiring was hanging in the middle and rubbing up again the window hardware. Multiple checks indicated that I had no wear areas creating a short. I had half-hoped it would be that easy.

    Next I wrestled with disconnecting the actuator so that I could pull it out to take a better look. I wrestled with it for awhile and couldn't get it out. I don't know why, since there is no key lock on the passenger side, but the darn actuator had a long arm that would attached to a key cylinder. This is what was preventing me from removing the latch from the door...that and the long interior locking rod I couldn't seem to get loose. Finally, I gave up and loosely bolted the latch back into place. Using information graciously posted by others on this forum, I used my VOM to run the 4 relevant continuity checks. The checked reflected just what I knew...continuity for locking and unlocking as and when needed, and not there when it is not supposed to be. And...no continuity when there was supposed to be for the door ajar condition...the condition that would activate the courtesy and puddle lamps. Dang...as RTH had suggested, bad actuator with bad micro switches. Rather than take the chance that it would foul up the BeCM, I contemplated just leaving it unplugged until I found and purchased another. Then I recalled reading that the boot doors and possibly the rear doors wouldn't latch/unlatch if the passenger actuator was disconnected. A quick check of the boot doors confirmed. Reconnect the actuator until I found another and chance burning up the BeCM, or take another stab at removing the actuator for a closer look. After all, it only has 6 or so screws holding it together. Heck, the door actuators in my Powerstroke pickup had no screws as it was not meant to be servicable...and I fixed all 4 or them.

    So, I took another stab at removing the actuator...removed the 6 screws and there it was. Well, not really. The actuator looked almost in new condition...as did the white grease used to lube the gears. I'm guessing the actuator is a replacement and by the looks of it, it had not been in there for long. The motor and brushes looked like brand new. After checking everything, everything looked good except for the the only micro switch in the unit...at the bottom of the unit. What I noticed is that it appeared the grease at the bottom of the actuator arm that made contact with the micro switch, appeared to have melted in the hot Texas heat and somehow had reached the contact points. A quick check of both sides of the switch with the VOM for continuity verified the issue. I'm guessing that my previous spraying of first WD40 then silicone probably temporarily cleared the contacts and allowed it to work all but temporarily. I decided to see what I could do. Since I couldn't open the switch, I took my can of MAF cleaner and thoroughly sprayed the entire switch down, then shook off the excess and waved it around to dry. A quick check with the VOM, continuity restored!!! Just to be thorough, I went thru the cleaning procedure again, dried and check continuity once again...GREEN...SUPER GREEN!!!

    A couple of things I did do before buttoning it all back up, was to re-secure the wiring with the appropriate holders and I also wrapped/insulated the wire loom in potential rub areas with black duct tape. I also cut off the unneeded key latch arm, which made reinstallation SO MUCH EASIER. As of this evening's ride, no bouncing locks and the courtesy and puddle light from the passenger door is now working as expected.

    Thanx to ToadHall and others who have posted pictures and details for testing the lock actuators. Without this info, we'd be left with coughing up the $$$'s for the heavily over-priced actuators. Thanx guys!!!

  6. #20
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    Quote Originally Posted by Crosbo
    What I noticed is that it appeared the grease at the bottom of the actuator arm that made contact with the micro switch, appeared to have melted in the hot Texas heat and somehow had reached the contact points. A quick check of both sides of the switch with the VOM for continuity verified the issue. I'm guessing that my previous spraying of first WD40 then silicone probably temporarily cleared the contacts and allowed it to work all but temporarily. I decided to see what I could do. Since I couldn't open the switch, I took my can of MAF cleaner and thoroughly sprayed the entire switch down, then shook off the excess and waved it around to dry. A quick check with the VOM, continuity restored!!! Just to be thorough, I went thru the cleaning procedure again, dried and check continuity once again...GREEN...SUPER GREEN!!!
    Sounds a lot like my actuator issue - also in TX heat.. I plan to try and rinse mine with chemsol this weekend so I have a good working set as a temporry backup...

    Will keep you posted as to how I get on with them and the Fob.

    Cheers
    Dan
    1999 Audi S8 Quattro
    2001 P38 4.6 Westminster
    Sunny South Padre Island TX.

  7. #21
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    Good luck Dan. Once you have the unit out and the 6 screws removed, it's pretty much straight forward from there.

  8. #22
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    Quote Originally Posted by Crosbo
    I traced the ground wire only to find that it was attached to the hood. The hood (bonnet)? There are no electronics in the hood that I am aware of, so why must it be grounded? Oh well, now the ground is tight.
    is that what this is by chance? I'm having the same issue.


    the pic got rotated for some reason, but I'm asking about the little silver tab hanging out between the bonnet and the pillar.

    closer up:
    2000 4.0 SE

  9. #23
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    No, I believe that is the line from your Nav unit to the GPS antenna located under the black cover at the bottom of the windshield.

    Here is a picture the connection and the ground strap that goes from the hood, transverses across the firewall and down to the back of the engine and attaches using one of the bolts for the engine lift bracket.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Doors lock and unlock while driving-photo.jpg  

  10. #24
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    cool. thanks for that. I don't have a nav unit though Are the Rovers outfitted with the antenna anyway?
    2000 4.0 SE

  11. #25
    SITE ADMINISTRATOR RRToadHall's Avatar
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    No
    Sucking at something is the first step to becoming sorta good at something.

  12. #26
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    thanks. I started another thread
    2000 4.0 SE

  13. #27
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    Well guys, because of the frustrations I've gone thru in the last week, I decided that I should provide an update and inform you that my last actions previously mentioned, were not the final answer. In short, the switch appeared to work as intended, but only until the next day. Then once again, the actuator once again began to sporadically activate the courtesy lights...and although less frequently, the actuator would occasionally make the locks bounce once again. I was so frustrated. I had cleaned and tested so many times and ran the continuity tests over and over...then installed it and tested it 4-6 times...and yet by the following day...it seemed I was back to square one. Come Friday evening, with our 25th anniversary upon us, my wife steadfastly stated that I was NOT going to spend my weekend dealing with my latest obsession.

    Saturday came and after catching up on my yardwork, I thought I'd "knock the door problem out quickly" and quickly moved from the mower to the door while my wife was inside for a drink. Before I removed the actuator, I ran the checks (as if the absent light and occasion lock bounce wasn't enough proof) using the VOM. I pulled the actuator and removed the cover once again. It looked okay and the only thing I could find was that perhaps there was still silicone fouling the contacts inside the switch...the switch that is supposed to be...appears to be sealed from the top. Never-the-less, I used the MAF cleaner once again and thoroughly cleaned the switch; then turned my attention to fully cleaning the remainder of the actuator, making sure to only leave the white lube where it was absolutely needed. Reassembled and using the VOM ran several more checks...working like a charm!

    Returned the actuator to the door and reconnected everything...still working well. Bolt it all back in...doesn't activate the lights. WTF!!! For the thousandth time I checked the wire. Moving the wiring around where it exits the actuator appeared to cause the switch to activate/deactivate. A broken wire perhaps? Once again, I pulled the actuator...and tore it down. An extremely thorough check of the wires proved there were no breaks. Further examination, closing the latch/opening the latch, locking/unlocking trying to get it to fail while in my hands and hoping identify the change/problem.

    Finally what I noticed was a space between the bottom of the micro switch and the actuator housing. And although one side of the micro switch has to "posts" that insert into the main body of the actuator housing, the "lid" side of the switch had nothing to secure it. What resulted was a gap between the switch contact buttons and the actuating "feet" sufficient to be too wide so that the foot of the "door ajar" lever could not fully depress the "door ajar" button of the switch...and likewise for the locking button of the switch. Much too long story short...my wife was indicating I should have already showered in preparation to take her out for dinner. Thinking quickly, I trimmed a thin piece of the fuel hose I had laying in front of me to fill the space below the switch, ran a quick 2-3 tests...all good...buttoned it up. Took the Rover to go to dinner that night...all's well.

    Sunday rolls around...beautiful day. Our youngest daughter home from college, made my wife and I breakfast for our anniversary. We sit and enjoy the delicious scones, coffee and visiting with her...it IS A BEAUTIFUL DAY! We go out and open the garage in preparation to take a ride to the store. I had to ask my wife...did I just hear the locks? A quick check of the door...no flippen light once again!!! I should add that when I was cutting the rubber hose, I was actually envisioning a bright shiny flat washer that I thought would be the right size. Problem was, I had to get it buttoned up quick and having recently moved and with a garage that is now nowhere near organized, I ran with the rubber sliver. Once again, I was discouraged. I've got other things that I want to move on to addressing...like the missing sub and the lack of sound from all speakers but those in the front doors...and the missing lights of the climate control. But first...I've got to get past this switch issue. Arrggghhh!

    Monday...busy day...decided not to touch it. Today...took a lunch break and tore into yet again. After wrestling and struggling with it the first couple of time, I'm pretty good at tearing it down now...possibly almost able to do it blindfolded. This time, taking my time, I reconfirmed the gap issue and also noticed that the sliver of fuel hose wasn't quick thick enough once it turned off edge. Without moving the activating arm/gear, I was able to easily verify that there was enough play in the mounting of the switch that the button would close and open the contact points.

    I contemplated gluing the switch into place, but decided against it. Next I sought out a few flat washers to fill the void. One was too thick...the next too thin. Having no luck, I wondered if it could be as easy as reaching into my pocket. Penny? Nickel? Dime? The penny was the winner...fit perfectly. That was earlier in the day...and as of this evening, all is still well.

    So, this evening JR received a nice Murphy's Oil Soap hand wash, wheels shined, tires treated and a couple of bright new amber turn signal bulbs. Showing him all the love I can...now I just need this to be the final fix for the lock actuator so that I can move on to focus on the couple of other issues. Please...

  14. #28
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    That's a great story, thanks.

    I have the same issue and will use your narrative as a guide.
    2000 HSE "Julian" on coils - work in progress
    2001 HSE "Sandy"on air.
    SAAB C900 Convertible 1993

  15. #29
    NEWBIE
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    Re: Doors lock and unlock while driving

    i have the same issue with my truck now, i wanted to know what did you do to avoid this problem?

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