Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)
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Thread: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
    Join Date
    November 14th, 2007
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    Raleigh, NC 27613
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    135

    Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    I need a new Viscous Coupling mine is starting to fall apart. There is not a lot of information in the Workshop Manual about how to do this. I found a place that said you can do it with out taking out the transmisssion but merely supporting it. Has anyone done this and can walk me thru it or know where there is a write up?
    Rob Caulfield
    99 RR
    96 Disco

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  3. #2
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Raleigh, NC 27613
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    I saw this from the Ashcroft site. Wouldn't I need to remove the rear prop shaft? What else is involved?


    1) Remove front prop shaft
    2) Drain oil from transfer box
    3) Support gearbox and remove right hand gearbox mount
    4) Remove bolt holding Viscous Coupling housing to transfer box
    5) Rotate, to break silicone, and remove Viscous Coupling housing
    6) Remove flange nut and flange and press out Viscous Coupling
    7) Clean all joint faces
    Replace Viscous Coupling and reassemble in reverse order
    Rob Caulfield
    99 RR
    96 Disco

  4. #3
    SOLIHULL ROVER
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    June 13th, 2006
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    Kuala Lumpur
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Hi

    You do not have to remove the rear prop shaft.

    Follow the sequence from ashcroft should work.

    During renewal of my VC the chassis part between the rails (cross member) just under the gearbox was removed for better access.
    The transfer box remains in place and you just lift out the VC together with the bearing and front cover, and remove it from the front cover and swap the bearing onto the new unit. It is recommended to change the bearing but I understood that the workshop here never do that and never had any problems afterwards, but in general when a bearing is extracted with a puller it should not be reused as the bearing cage and balls have been subjected to force that could have left damage and bearing failure in the future could be the result.

    Good luck

    Jos
    1995 RR 4.0 SE
    Fitted with replacement engine and gearboxes from 1997 4.0 SE.

  5. #4
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Maybe i should have mentioned that I have a 1999 RR 4.6. Doesn't the viscous coupling bolt to the rear drive shaft?
    Rob Caulfield
    99 RR
    96 Disco

  6. #5
    SOLIHULL ROVER
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Hi Rob

    Check the drawings in the workshop manual.

    The VC has a splined shaft and connects to the drive shaft in the Transfer gearbox. It is therefor not necessary to remove the rear prop shaft as the rear part of the shaft in the Transfer gearbox that drives the rear prop shaft stays in place.

    Regards

    Jos
    1995 RR 4.0 SE
    Fitted with replacement engine and gearboxes from 1997 4.0 SE.

  7. #6
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Thanks for the help guys. Anyone know what the bearing part # is? Workshop manual is not being very helpful.
    Rob Caulfield
    99 RR
    96 Disco

  8. #7
    Col
    Col is offline
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Abingdon, Oxfordshire, U.K
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Quote Originally Posted by wrldky
    Anyone know what the bearing part # is? Workshop manual is not being very helpful.
    If you mean item No.2 It's RTC6025



    Cheers
    Col

    Beer is living proof God loves us and wants us to be Happy. - Benjamin Franklin 1706-1790

    Improvisation is the Mother of Invention

  9. #8
    zim
    zim is offline
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    It is possible to replace the vc without removing the cross member mentioned above. A bit awkward to get out, worse to get back in.... but a lot easier (quicker) than removing the cross member.

    Definately only the front prop needs to come off.

    Gordon

  10. #9
    SOLIHULL ROVER
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Hi

    Exchange of my VC was done by workshop and they remove the crossmember for better access. This involves only couple of bolts and takes less then 10 minutes to remove. I did not stick around to see the reassembly but assume it takes not much longer.
    I have to add that this is done by mechanic that has performed the job several times before.

    Best regards

    Jos
    1995 RR 4.0 SE
    Fitted with replacement engine and gearboxes from 1997 4.0 SE.

  11. #10
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Finished this project last night. Thank you for all the help! I will say whoever said the cross member only had a "couple of bolts" has never been on their back for two hours removing the 14 bolts and banging on it with a sledge. I found that this project went without any surprises and was fairly straight forward. I wish I would have ordered the oil seal before so I would not have to pay Land Rover prices. Best to go to CarQuest if you want to do it local and let them get the parts from WorldPac. They had both the Timken bearing and the oil seal. (they needed a day for the oil seal) I also replaced the nuts and bolts on the drive shaft which I bout at Lowes. Upgraded to a #8.
    I also wish i would have bought a set of ratcheting metric wrenches. That would have saved me a LOT of time putting bolts back on as I used an air wrench to remove most of them.
    If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help as others have helped me. Shoot me an email.
    For reference: CarQuest Bearing 6207 C3 and Oil Seal was FTC 4939.
    Rob Caulfield
    99 RR
    96 Disco

  12. #11
    NEWBIE ADVriderdude's Avatar
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    November 21st, 2011
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    Southern California, USA
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    Re: Viscous Coupling Replacement (how to?)

    Thanks wrldky, this is all good info...

    I'm a newbie to the forum and a newbie to Range Rovers. Just purchased a classic '93 LWB and will be putting a new VC in hopefully over the Thanksgiving Holiday.
    The bearing and seal numbers were helpful, but do you know if they are the same for a Classic? (If I'm reading this correctly, you have a P38.)
    Thanks again!

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