Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal - Page 2
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Thread: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

  1. #16
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    That was my thought as well, given that the pulley rotates and that it's located via key and the belts holding it straight I thought it unlikely it would go anywhere anyway. I'll get that bolt as tight as I can and call it good. I have a couple of jobs left to do anyway, I noticed I have a very slight oil leak from the oil cooler line that goes in above the oil filter so I will be removing that to double check everything and stop it leaking. Otherwise, I'm pleased with the rebuild, it went fairly smoothly and I learnt a lot about the engine during the process, I actually find the P38 design pretty good, despite all the bad press it gets I think it's an excellent vehicle, possibly let down a little by usage of poorer quality items here and there (such as the stupid exhaust manifold heat shields - why are they not made of stainless with rot proof fittings!) and crappy plastic on some of the connectors.

    Quote Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin View Post
    The bolt is there to stop the pulley from working its way off. The key locates it on the crank, the belt all but supports it in place, so the bolts is there as insurance.
    If you cant get a good reading on the torque wrench because of the engine turning over, then I would hit it with the impact and call it good. I have never had a pulley bolt come loose on me, on any vehicle I have cursed at, oh I meant to say worked on....

    Martin

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  3. #17
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    can't you stop it at the flywheel?
    Larry S
    1995 4.6 HSE

  4. #18
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    The engine is already installed, gearbox buttoned up so it might be tricky to get at it.

  5. #19
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    half moon inspection panel, unless you've got the bosch sump.
    Larry S
    1995 4.6 HSE

  6. #20
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    Good point, I have GEMS

  7. #21
    LEGACY VENDOR leftlanetruckin's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    There ye go, Larry to the rescue again
    Never even thought about that, but it would work with someone holding the flexplate while you wrench on the pulley bolt. And a LOT faster and easier than removing the radiator etc.

    Martin

  8. #22
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    It's tight now!. I used the "half moon" method and managed to lock the flywheel nice and solidly. My torque wrench goes up to a maximum of 220NM, so, laying on my back with my feet pushed up against the wheel and pulling as firmly as possible I managed to get the torque wrench to click meaning it's now at least 220NM tight. I tried pulling a wee bit more and managed to break the socket, I'm happy it's tight enough

  9. #23
    FRESHMAN ROVER Gripian's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    Hi All. So amongst the things I have attempted thus far... one being removing the crank pulley & bolt. Doing my research here and elsewhere before attempting... I dont have air tools yet..someday. The woodblocking the flywheel method seemed do-able for me, but did'nt want to open er' up at that time. The "hillbilly" method...the youtube title..hilarious... where you put a breaker bar on the bolt, and secure the breaker bar to the ground, and hit the starter... I almost gave it a try.. But the risk for me was way too great!!
    This is what I came up with....Its either pure genius, or pure stupidity. There are no in-betweens for me. HAH Whether it be stupid, or genius. It seemed to work quite well for bolt on and off. If you are viewing this and see any potential problems, I may be creating internally. PLEASE let me know!! The wooden wedge is about 1'x1' on the back end... using my old serpentine belt... I was not sure if the water pump pulley was strong enough underneath the shiny band, to take the pressure... or I may have used a steel or aluminum type wedge.

    Also, this is my first post, after months of lurking... If I should post this somewhere else, or delete it. Let me know! Thanks.



  10. #24
    LEGACY VENDOR leftlanetruckin's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    So you put a wedge between the water pump and the crank pulley then?
    More faith in that water pump pulley than me if that's the case......

    Martin
    '98 P38 HSE, with a 6.0 liter LSx and 4L60E transmission, fully functional EAS, HVAC etc.
    '03 L322 HSE Bone stock, besides XM.
    '98 XJ Locked, geared, plated and on 37's.
    Custom fabrication, engine rebuilds and knowledge that comes from experience and not Google, always available for a reasonable cost.
    Reliable BECM repairs, and EAS Parts....www.becmdoctor.com

  11. #25
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    Normal thread... Be careful not to do what I did.. I forgot to put the washer on the puller and the thread from the puller re-threaded my Crank hole to a different thread... can't afford a new crank yet, so have to use lock-tite on it until then.... and you really only need it off it you are doing work inside around the timing chain / oil pump areas... other than that you should be ok with it there... Also be mindful of the seal there, they are in expensive, but if you ruin it.... even a little get a NEW one immediately... Trust Me.

  12. #26
    FRESHMAN ROVER Gripian's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    Quote Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin View Post
    So you put a wedge between the water pump and the crank pulley then?
    More faith in that water pump pulley than me if that's the case......

    Martin
    Thanks for the reply Martin. Sorry for my late reply... After I posted, it didnt seem to take, thought it was an error, or I hit the wrong button... now I know for later posts to just give it some time to process.

    Anyway yes, I used a wooden wedge between the water pump and crank pulleys. Yeah, I know it was potentially risky... but my choices were limited. I Loosened and tightened, very slowly and methodically. And so far still no issues... that I can feel or see.
    I work with pulleys in my industry. These pulleys I use are generally smaller, and mostly used for hoisting up heavy weight. Even the smallest pulley we use, has at least a 200 lb load capacity. So I wasn't too concerned with damaging the large water pump pulley itself... more concern for what I could not see behind it.
    If I ever need to do this again, I will hopefully have the proper tools. But, if I don't. I would feel fairly confident doing it this way again. It was easy.

  13. #27
    LEGACY VENDOR leftlanetruckin's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    So hou work with pulleys that are rated for lifting?
    Regardless of their size, they will be equipped with stronger bearings than the water pump has though wont they?
    I know it's easy to think the bigger the pulley, the stronger it is. But this is so far from the truth it isn't funny.
    Glad you got away with it this time, I would be reverting to plan B next time though/.

    Martin
    '98 P38 HSE, with a 6.0 liter LSx and 4L60E transmission, fully functional EAS, HVAC etc.
    '03 L322 HSE Bone stock, besides XM.
    '98 XJ Locked, geared, plated and on 37's.
    Custom fabrication, engine rebuilds and knowledge that comes from experience and not Google, always available for a reasonable cost.
    Reliable BECM repairs, and EAS Parts....www.becmdoctor.com

  14. #28
    FRESHMAN ROVER Gripian's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    Yes rated for lifting. However if it is 1/2 ton or over we would use chain motors. And I do realize size doesn't always matter. HAH
    I am not sure about the bearings on the RR water pump. Yes I would imagine that the bearings are stronger on pulleys we use on the job. I have yet to yank the water pump pulley off, so I dont really know what is behind it. I have only seen the drawings in the RAVE.
    I was very confident that the crank pulley and bolt could handle the pressure. And then, I some how justified in my mind... That because I was applying pressure to the water pump pulley in the same manner the serpentine belt would normally. That I would hopefully be "OK".

    So out of curiosity... How much "force" if any, is applied to the pulleys by the belt and engine when working at its hardest? Any solid answers or hypothesis?

    And without explaining why, I have gotten away with this twice. But will now do it the "right way" or "plan A" if there is a next time. Because of your concern. Thanks again Martin!

  15. #29
    LEGACY VENDOR leftlanetruckin's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    Couldn't answer the question of how much ft/lbs is placed on the water pump bearing when it's running, but it was designed for that wasnt it?
    IMHO, the right tools are cheaper than a new water pump, so that is why I say what I do.

    Martin
    '98 P38 HSE, with a 6.0 liter LSx and 4L60E transmission, fully functional EAS, HVAC etc.
    '03 L322 HSE Bone stock, besides XM.
    '98 XJ Locked, geared, plated and on 37's.
    Custom fabrication, engine rebuilds and knowledge that comes from experience and not Google, always available for a reasonable cost.
    Reliable BECM repairs, and EAS Parts....www.becmdoctor.com

  16. #30
    FRESHMAN ROVER Gripian's Avatar
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    Re: Crankshaft Pulley Wheel Nut Removal

    It is a tough question indeed... any mathematicians out there? Yes I imagine it was designed for that too... which is why I did what I did.

    Amen. The right tools are always better!! And I believe it to be your professional and correct opinion. I dont know how I would change that from IMHO. lol

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