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What's the Normal Time for the EAS to Adjust to Road Height?

1K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  Steven Q7 
#1 ·
I suppose this would vary, depending on temperature, how long last driven, etc, etc, etc... Anyway, I just recovered from my Rangie having a heart attack and then dropping down to the bump stops displaying the dreaded "Slow 55km" display on the message panel with the obnoxious orange picture of my vehicle balanced on an arrow head. Prior to the drama I noticed that it seemed to take longer and longer to auto-adjust at start-up to the correct drive mode and the light on the adjuster panel seemed to be having a party with itself, sometimes taking 5 minutes of driving before it settled. When I drove to my service dealer on the bump stops (a bit like driving one of those clown cars with square wheels in the cartoons) I just prayed they could sort it out for me as I've read in these forums that they need the plug-in thingy to reset the error. Anyway, they did fix it, they reported that it seemed to be a valve or something that was dirty on the front right. They apparently cleaned it, reset the computer and all was hunky-dory, with the flashing adjusting lights flashing and taking around 30 seconds to adjust to drive level from start-up. Me was very happy `)

Ok... This morning ('twas a cold one), I started up and the adjusting lights started a-flashing. No problem, I thought... and drove off continuously checking the ominous flashing with worried concern that I'd soon be in the same boat as last time. However, fortunately it finally settled on the normal road drive mode and I let out a sigh of relief... Question is, is this normal? Was it because it was cold and is there anything I can do to make it adjust quicker? My repair garage said they checked for leaks and they couldn't find any, also, it always seems to happily retain it's height when I park it over night, or even when I don't drive it for up to a week, so I'm guessing there isn't a leak anywhere. If after the auto-height lights flash for to long, is this when the nasty orange light with bump stop error occurs? Can I just pull-over to the side of the road after a minute or two of the height adjusting light flashing then restart the car hopefully resetting the computer timer for chucking up the error message? I'd be interested to hear what everyone else does and/or what your experiences are with this EAS situation. 'Twas nice to see the correct adjustment height settle while I drove down my driveway, and, it would be nice if this was a common occurrence :D
 
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#2 ·
Sound like the EAS Pump is struggling to maintain tank pressure. Open the bonnet & drivers door, and listen to the pump, while timing how long until it stops. Tank should be full in 10-12mins. After that the car should rise in 2-3 seconds to normal height.

If it actually does stay up when parked, then assuming the tank has air, adjusting to normal height should be a second or two.
If you get the lights flashing for ages then there's not enough air in the tank.

The fix is simple . . . . . buy a pump refurb kit and fix it for £20
 
#3 ·
When you say "adjust to start up height" what exactly do you mean?
Do you park it in Access, and then, when you come to drive away, select Normal?
If you park it at Normal on level ground and all is good with the system, it'll still be at Normal when you next come to use it.
Anyway, apart from dousing everything with soapy water to check for leaks, like Pete says it's time to refurb the compressor. No point in doing that until you've fixed the leaks though or it'll just kill the compressor again.
Compressor kit included in this set, which also has what you'll need to refurb the valve block- sooner or later!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RANGE-RO...LVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-KIT-/321451243072?
 
#4 ·
You really need to read through the EAS sticky on the P38 section. It's at the top of the page in this section.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/4468-info-eas-troubleshooting-tips.html
You not knowing what "there's a valve or something" means, is opening you up to getting screwed by the shop, not to mention nobody here knows if that was a height sensor, a solenoid, non return valve, and so on. It will also help us help you, although there is not a fault in existence that has not been covered in detail in that thread.
Nobody here is going to know 100% what the issue is unless YOU put forth some effort and do some investigating. Not saying your compressor could not benefit from a rebuild, no doubt it could. But you either have to get your head around the whole EAS system, or just take it to a garage that knows it well and let them handle it.
You could have a leak in the tank or its lines, a bag dropping some air pressure, a valve block leak, or the EAS driver is doing stupid stuff before it goes bye bye.

Martin
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the feedback guys. As suggested, I checked to see if the pump filled the tank okay on returning to the vehicle the next morning. With the bonnet open, I tuned the ignition switch and listened under the hood. True enough, there was a whirring noise that emitted from the engine compartment and it continued for round 20-30 seconds then stopped. I jumped into the drivers seat and then started the engine, the car seemed to jiggle around for about 5 seconds or so seemingly adjusting itself and I stuck the gear shifter into Drive and started down my drive with the "Solid Line" LED flashing away merrily. I turned onto road and in just over a minute the LED had settled and was solid on the "Solid Line" normal road LED. So I'm assuming the lengthy, nearly 5 minutes it took the other day was an abnormally and just may have been because it was a bitterly cold morning. It still seems to stabilize on a solid LED after anything between 15 seconds and 2 minutes, however, this is much, much, quicker than it took before the garage had cleared the blocked valve.

As for reading the EAS section, done! :) I've also printed out the entire 1,600 or so pages of the Workshop manual from the Rave disk and soon the Electrical manual as well (still got to get some 4-Ring folders for them). These manuals I feel will be handy if the EAS problem persists and it looks like I came of lightly this round, next time may not be as so. It's a 1999 model, so I suppose there is an inevitable problem on the horizon with the compressor and/or the bags in the future. Regardless of this, the manuals will be handy for other areas I'm inevitably going to have to work on in the future.

Thanks to all of you again for your input, it's really appreciated. Hopefully, in time, I'll be able to contribute to these forums as well in the future with some useful repair experiences :)
 
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