Immobiliser fault?
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Thread: Immobiliser fault?

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Immobiliser fault?

    New member - I have been driving my new Dec 01 P38 for a couple of months, left it for the weekend and now have a flat battery. Recharged the battery and now can't immobilise vehicle. Replaced battery with heavy duty new battery, the alarm goes off on entry into car, removed horn relay to keep neighbours happy! Once key in ignition, I'm told to enter EKA code, checked with Range Rover and I have correct code but still no response. I have read all the forums about this problem and tried all the advice on key resync's etc but still no joy. The car has now been on my drive for 6 weeks!! Local independant guy tells me I need a security code relearn using his T4 system, but he didn't bring it with him and I'm still waiting.... I am seriously considering buying the black box solutions MSV1. In desperation, tonight I removed the door lock and checked for continuity between white and black wires when door is locked, this I have not got, perhaps this is why it will not accept the EKA? Any advice would be appreciated, especially if it is possible to short the wires to enter the EKA without the key. Also, this time last year the previous owner had a new alarm control unit fitted since it had forgotten it's code.

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  3. #2
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Welcome to the forum.

    This is a pretty common problem - has happened to me.
    Basically there are 2 ways to get the car out of this state - 1 is using the EKA and the other is using something like Testbook.

    The most common reason for the EKA code not working is a faulty driver's door latch assembly (or more precisely a faulty micro switch in the latch).
    Before being immobilised if you used the key in the door would it unlock all the doors through the central locking or just the driver's door?
    When you try entering the EKA code do the indicators flash?
    2000 P38 4.6 Vogue lpg
    1997 P38 4.6 HSE lpg - sold
    2000 Mercedes SL320 - lpg
    1976 Ford Gran Torino Starsky & Hutch Limited Edition (restoration project)
    1978 VW type 2 camper
    2000 Saab convertible lpg - sold
    1970 VW Beetle wizard convertible

  4. #3
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Hi
    Only the drivers door opens, none of the other doors. I have removed the lock and switch - it's on the bench but I'm not really sure how to test, or whether to just replace? No the indicators don't flash (as they should?) I have tried everything I have read on this forum!! Any help would be appreciated.

  5. #4
    Premium Member
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    The alarm sounder/BBUS must be plugged in for the EKA code to be accepted.Plus all panels inc the bonnet must be closed.
    Think beyond -

  6. #5
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Sorry AMcK - I misread you post.....
    All the central locking and doors worked fine before the flat battery.

    Thanks for the post Allyv8 - all doors etc were closed, and only removed the relay after the EKA would not work, so I could get into the car.

    Last night someone connected a fault reader, and it had codes 0108 and 0140 - anti theft alarm serial link. These faults were cleared but fault 0140 returns. I think this is the rf receiver which I removed this morning. Where is the best place for me to buy a new receiver and door lock actuator and any more tips/ideas would be gratefully received.

  7. #6
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    June 19th, 2007
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    Sussex
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    818

    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    I wouldn't spend any more money buying components.

    Get your door lock back on. Close the door, try the EKA & if the lights flash the lock is working.

    You then need to get your becm looked at as it's probably in an alarmed state. If this is the case, no matter what you replace will rectify this problem.
    Electrical mechanical engineer
    Becm Specialist repair & rebuild
    www.callrova.com

  8. #7
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Berkshire UK
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Hi Koisteve

    I have emailed you my pics and how i mended my actuator as requested, hopefully it will help

  9. #8
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    cTestBook T4 can disable the EKA immobilisation. I recently had a car in as a non starter which wouldn't accept its EKA either manually or via TestBook. The cause could be several things which can sometimes take ages to rectify. In this case disabling the EKA imobilisation worked immediatly and he was able to drive to the ferry for his hols. On return he wanted it left like that as he could open the door with his key which opened/closed the other doors with the central locking and was having no starting problems. When locked the red dash alarm light indicated the alarm was operating but we couldn't check that as he had removed the alam horn months ago. All he didn't have was the remote plip facility.
    On numerous occations I attend cars that have had the battery disconnected (and not all correctly) so on reconnection the alarm often sounds either opening the door (I normally have the door open) or putting the key in the ignition and turning it to position 2. With the key in I press the lock and unlock buttons several times the key synchronises with the BECM the central locking starts working and the car will start. Even with EKA code in the message center. At least its what I have found

  10. #9
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Hi everyone, thanks for all the help.

    Brad - thanks for all the emails and pics. The door lock has been stripped and rebuilt and all the micro switches and continuity testing has been completed but I couldn't find anything wrong. It's all back together now, but still no EKA working. No indicators flashing etc....

    I finally got my black box VS2 working, (another 3 days lost), and tonight got all excited when I tried to access the becm. But as others have predicted it was alarmed and denied me access. I disarmed the becm, which VS2 said it had done, but every time I go back to access it, it tells me it is still alarmed. I was sitting in the back of the Rangey, reminding myself of the smell of leather! When I realised that the passive immobiliser was still alarmed and that my body movement might have been triggering the alarm. So I repeated the whole process twice from outside the car, with the doors etc shut, but I can't get out of the becm alarmed mode.

    Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated. - I am struggling to find someone local with mobile T4! --

  11. #10
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Have you thought about the possibility of removing the Becm and sending it off the be unlocked?
    2000 P38 4.6 Vogue lpg
    1997 P38 4.6 HSE lpg - sold
    2000 Mercedes SL320 - lpg
    1976 Ford Gran Torino Starsky & Hutch Limited Edition (restoration project)
    1978 VW type 2 camper
    2000 Saab convertible lpg - sold
    1970 VW Beetle wizard convertible

  12. #11
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Hi AMcK

    Thanks for the reply. Is this the only option?or can someone sort it with T4? We are in Surrey, any ideas on places to send it?

  13. #12
    SITE ADMINISTRATOR RRToadHall's Avatar
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Quote Originally Posted by koisteve p38
    Hi AMcK

    Thanks for the reply. Is this the only option?or can someone sort it with T4? We are in Surrey, any ideas on places to send it?
    Special equipment is required to unlock. I would contact Rick the Pick on here and set up a time for your BeCM to go on a little vacation. He is supper speedy and close to you.
    Sucking at something is the first step to becoming sorta good at something.

  14. #13
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    well thanks again all
    The Becm had a very short holiday less than 7 hours at Rick the Pick seaside resort and now problem fixed.
    I do not have much time now but will start checking for battery drain soon.Reading Brad Chip post with interest.
    Thank you all it is so nice to be driving her again.

  15. #14
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    Excellent news

  16. #15
    GRC
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    Re: Immobiliser fault?

    My turn now ...

    Well I’ve had a dead car on the drive for a couple of weeks now; have done most things suggested, without success. The story so far:-

    First sign something was wrong was all indicators permanently on one night – car was unlocked and no siren. Remote locked the car and indicators turned off.

    Next morning alarm went off for no apparent reason – remote unlocked the car and all OK. Later that day all the indicators came on again (no alarm). Remote locked an unlocked and all OK except – will not start. “ENGINE DISABLED” message displayed.

    Tried EKA procedure - no luck - repeaters flash when the key is turned anti-clockwise (lock) but not when turned clockwise (unlock) so probably a contact problem in the lock mechanism there as well (see below for other locking problems).

    Tried connecting battery with ignition in Position 2 – no luck – all doors, bonnet, tailgate etc. closed. Loads of “NOT SET” messages (removed without a problem) but still dead.

    Replaced fusebox since I saw someone with the same symptoms as me track it down to bad connections inside the fusebox (I’ve had RL7 overheating etc. but repaired and now replaced). All fuses and relays seem OK.

    Strange thing is – remote syncs with the car and locks / unlocks everything except front (left) passenger door – this is new – normally everything locks / unlocks OK. I’ve got the inner panel off the passenger door and can’t see any problems but I'm in new territory here so don't really know what I'm looking for. If I manually lock the passenger door by pushing the interior knob down then all doors lock, but the passenger door can only be unlocked again by lifting the knob manually. On another site I read that a failed door lock actuator can cause immobilisation – true? Key locking works on driver's and rear doors (not front passenger) but unlocking fails - only driver's door unlocks.

    Battery is good and on trickle charge (disconnected) while I figure this thing out. When I turn the key I get a relay clicking, electric motors whir into life but she just won’t crank.

    Only other problem is “AIRBAG FAULT” and the SRS light on but it’s been like that for months since I can’t track down that problem either.

    There’s no condensation or water around the harnesses; it’s pretty warm and dry here at the moment, and I’ve run out of ideas.

    Don’t see a need to play with the RF receiver because it seems to be working OK (unless it’s being swamped by another signal from somewhere?). I’m hoping it’s not the BECM gone South – that might mean it’s time for a new car.

    Help!

    Thanks.

    Graeme
    1997 UK Spec 4.6 HSE; Rioja Red + Lightstone leather; 18 inch triple-spoke alloys; Pirelli Scorpion ATR; lamp guards; side steps; factory A-bar + driving lights, towbar, dog guard, Arnott G IIs. 115k miles @ June 2010.

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