EAS height sensor calibration advice.
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Thread: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    Hi all,

    I have faulty height sensors. fix is 2,500$ quote from dealer.
    Obviously this isn't gonna happen.

    I am going to try a range of things like:
    - reposition the potentiometer arm in the sensor.
    - clean it.
    - even solder in a new carbon track or whatever.

    But my question is, when I take this sensor off the truck and very
    carefully inspect it and attempt the above, what are the implications
    for calibration afterwards?

    Initially I want to be gingerly careful and perhaps just clean it and
    shift the potentiometer arm just slightly. I intend to be very careful
    so that the voltage readings are almost exactly what they were.

    But if I am off by a fraction will that mean that the car will sit lop sided?
    Or will it panick and hard fault altogether?

    I want to be able to work on this at home and not need trips to the
    dealer obviously.

    All of your knowledge is welcome.

    cheers,
    Pauly.
    P38 Red Truck.

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  3. #2
    SITE ADMINISTRATOR RRToadHall's Avatar
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    Depending on your year of rig, you may be able to just swap them side to side and have the suspension recalibrated at an indie. Early model sensors are only $175-$200 per corner new with a few minutes per corner to install. For $2500 you could replace all four and purchase a Rovacom and calibrate the system yourself!
    Why don’t you ever see hippopotamus hiding in trees? ...because they’re REALLY good at it.

  4. #3
    jsp
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    Premium Member jsp's Avatar
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    this is my project for next weekend - I have a bad front right.

    Might swap them out

    have also noted temperature changes make them work or fail - I put the blow torch on it and it faulted instantly - just the temp variation. Might need resoldering - I havent opened it to check it out yet.
    John - South Australia
    1994 Vogue SE Classic
    1995 HSE P38
    2002 HSE L322

  5. #4
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by jsp
    this is my project for next weekend - I have a bad front right.

    Might swap them out

    have also noted temperature changes make them work or fail - I put the blow torch on it and it faulted instantly - just the temp variation. Might need resoldering - I havent opened it to check it out yet.



    Gidday John,
    Interesting we are both:
    - in IT.
    - have 1995 RR's with height sensor problems in RHF wheel.
    - are into HIFI
    - live in Aus.
    & my rangie originally came from SA.
    ))


    I will have a go at mine this w/e also.

    Will let you know how things go.

    Are you going to swap the left and right hand sensors
    did you say? OR do you swap the sides or something
    inside the actual sensor?

    Like I don't see how swapping them from left to right
    wheels makes any difference?

    cheers,
    Paul.

    PS the heat cold effect is typical of worn potentiometers i think.
    Not necessarily bad solder contacts. the sensors improve in the
    summer and get worse as this winter comes on.

    PPS I have heard it may be possible to solder "new" carbon tracks
    on though, replacing the surface that is worn through.

    Still like to know the effect on the calibration though.

    chs,
    P.
    P38 Red Truck.

  6. #5
    jsp
    jsp is offline
    Premium Member jsp's Avatar
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    the idea with swapping the left and right sensors is they are the same, but the pots will be 180 degree's out of phase when swapped, so there should be fresh new tracks to wear out

    I am not that much into audio, I need to get my ESL's mylar replaced, but I did just finish a 6L6 PP amp at long last! As for it....bah its a living, I am no expert!

    As for the temperature changes, I am hoping its just a dry joint and the expansion/contraction with temp is enough to upset/fix it
    John - South Australia
    1994 Vogue SE Classic
    1995 HSE P38
    2002 HSE L322

  7. #6
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    For the calibration check out Malafax_dand's EAS Videos and instructions from the Diagnostic Systems forum on this site. I followed his instructions and made an OBDII cable and downloaded his EAS software: allowed me to calibrate for the cost of the cable parts ($30).

  8. #7
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by paul500

    Are you going to swap the left and right hand sensors
    did you say? OR do you swap the sides or something
    inside the actual sensor?

    Like I don't see how swapping them from left to right
    wheels makes any difference?
    If you look at the ETM, you can see that one side of the vehicle uses the connection between pins 1 & 2, while the other side uses 2 & 3; pins 1 & 3 being opposite ends of the fixed resistance, and pin 2 the wiper.
    When you swap them side to side, you are now working on a previously unused section of the potentiometer.
    The side-to-side swap is moving the complete assembly from 1 side of the truck to the other.
    Calibration change, if any, would be minimal, unless your settings have been recently recalibrated on the "dirty" pots.

    Before starting, I suggest having the Malafax software loaded & ready, along with the appropriate cable.

    I swapped my rear pair without effect on ride height.
    About 30 minutes, some spray lubricant, a socket wrench, and a pair of channel-lock pliers did the trick.
    Jim
    2000 NAS HSE
    2005 NAS HSE

  9. #8
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice. POST w/e update.

    thanks for all this great advice!

    - I got the Malafax DIY testbook happening. Wow. Fantastic.
    Best thing since anything. That guy deserves medals/beer
    anything he wants. Thank you so much for the freedom this
    provides.

    - I swapped the front height sensors. I see now they swap
    easily because the bolts are "not" mirror image. So it's quite
    possible to do this on a p38 1995 4.6 . (This can answer that
    question raised somewhere on rangerovers .net at last.)
    Obviously also possible as described by Jim due to the unused
    section of the potentiometer.

    - it worked. for a while. I went for a 10km drive and there was no
    EAS fault. But then the next drive it faulted AGAIN!

    - I used the Malafax software EAS_faults to list which sensor was
    still giving trouble. I basically cleared the fault and then restarted
    the car and got the fault back again and read it again to be sure
    what sensor it was. It was right hand front.

    - I took it off again and took it to the LAB. On a multimeter it read
    100 ohm to 1.6k twice in the full 360 degeees. Smooth as a babys
    bum, so i couldn't figure what was wrong with it. Then I noticed it
    did go open circuit at 12 o'clock but suspected this was deliberate
    and this point in the circle is never reached any way. I kept playing
    with it on the bench when suddenly I noticed the thing go open circuit
    at any point of the potentiometer due to the wires flexing. I held the
    pot steady in a vice and just ever so slightly moved the wires and
    doing this could make it go open circuit. Using a pocket knife I
    looked for a way in. I butched it a bit in places before I found the
    best way in was from the back. I pried the back off. And WALLAH!
    or EUREKA ( as we say in aus) . Inside the tracks all looked
    fairly good but the terminals that the wires were soldered to were not.
    On the green wire before my eyes was a dry solder joint. I was SO
    glad to see it!

    I re soldered all three wires properly after solder sucking them,
    cutting the wires fresh and cleaning up the terminals.

    - my next job is to re seal it up with some silicone and wack it back
    in the truck.

    It should be good.

    thanks again to all.

    But beware to all... sometimes it's not the carbon tracks that wear out.
    It is sometimes due to dry solder joints inside the sensor. Which is
    good news as this is quite fixable.

    cheers,
    Paul.

    PS as yet i have not needed to recalibrate, but the Malafax
    software allows this without a dealer visit if needed.





    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-00-4.6
    Quote Originally Posted by paul500

    Are you going to swap the left and right hand sensors
    did you say? OR do you swap the sides or something
    inside the actual sensor?

    Like I don't see how swapping them from left to right
    wheels makes any difference?
    If you look at the ETM, you can see that one side of the vehicle uses the connection between pins 1 & 2, while the other side uses 2 & 3; pins 1 & 3 being opposite ends of the fixed resistance, and pin 2 the wiper.
    When you swap them side to side, you are now working on a previously unused section of the potentiometer.
    The side-to-side swap is moving the complete assembly from 1 side of the truck to the other.
    Calibration change, if any, would be minimal, unless your settings have been recently recalibrated on the "dirty" pots.

    Before starting, I suggest having the Malafax software loaded & ready, along with the appropriate cable.

    I swapped my rear pair without effect on ride height.
    About 30 minutes, some spray lubricant, a socket wrench, and a pair of channel-lock pliers did the trick.
    P38 Red Truck.

  10. #9
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Location
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    this is one of the most interesting threads i have read recently. i too have an EAS problem that seems to be centred around the front drivers side, (r/h) i fitted Koni's last year and made the mistake of jumping up and down on the suspension (not litteraly) to get them located as i couldnt compress them.
    since then the front o/s seems higher than it should be and is often looking for its correct hight, hunting up and down when stopped at lights ect!
    i had it checked and no fault found but you know when you know, and as the guy with the testbook turned away it lower it self a good 30mm. think he thought i drunk!
    i have recently had soft fault twice but only when R/R left in acess hight for a while when i been working on it, seems a sensor that may have got pulled a little too far one way is giving trouble at the extreme in the opposite direction! i did explain this to the guys with the testbook and they just discharged the idea as silly saying "they cant be damaged like that" !!
    i been concidering swaping sensors side to side and even though i have the software and the cable i would rather know what may happen before hand!
    from what i have read it seems its possible to swap sensors (1994 P3 without having to recalibrate unless it been done recently which mine hasn't! i think il do it and then probably have a crash course in eas re-calibrating afterwards. LOL!
    4.6HSE lpg, single box de-cat exhaust, K+N, Koni's
    http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...urespit001.jpg

  11. #10
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    - I swapped the front height sensors. I see now they swap
    easily because the bolts are "not" mirror image. So it's quite
    possible to do this on a P38 1995 4.6 . (This can answer that
    question raised somewhere on rangerovers .net at last.)
    Obviously also possible as described by Jim due to the unused
    section of the potentiometer.
    Yes, the software is great, isn't' it?

    Did I understand that the potentiometer swap cannot be done on the later models?

    Good thread!
    2000 HSE "Julian" on coils - work in progress
    2001 HSE "Sandy"on air.
    SAAB C900 Convertible 1993

  12. #11
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
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    Location
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    5,305

    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    BTW, I have a set of genuine height calibration blocks and have measured and drawn them, and placed the drawing on the 'Net.

    See http://www.p38arover.com/rover/p38a/pix/LRT_60-003.pdf
    Ron Beckett
    1995 Range Rover HSE 4.6 V8 auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    2006 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom

    RIP Bucko (1979-2008 - Riding on forever)
    http://p38arover.com/lee_pix/bike_caricature-avatar.jpg

  13. #12
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by SpiggyTopes
    - I swapped the front height sensors. I see now they swap
    easily because the bolts are "not" mirror image. So it's quite
    possible to do this on a P38 1995 4.6 . (This can answer that
    question raised somewhere on rangerovers .net at last.)
    Obviously also possible as described by Jim due to the unused
    section of the potentiometer.
    Yes, the software is great, isn't' it?

    Did I understand that the potentiometer swap cannot be done on the later models?

    Good thread!


    on link:

    http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetail ... overy.html

    section :
    Height Sensor Repair or Replacement

    It says :

    Thus, you can double their life span if you do as Peter did and swap
    them from side to side. (I am not sure if this is the case though with
    the 4.0/4.6 sensors -- please email me if you have taken one apart.


    So ever since I read "this" I had doubts as to if it's possible.
    But I have now seen it's ok for 1995 4.6.
    So It can be done on later models. Later than the classic.
    But up to what I don't know. Perhaps up to 1998 at a guess.
    Perhaps up to more?



    Height Sensor Replacement corollary:
    ========================
    DONT DO THIS AT HOME OR EVER !!!

    thought i'd add this tale. you probably won't be stupid enough to do this
    but here's the warning anyway:

    After I resealed my sensor with silicone and 'stuff' I was ready to put it back on.
    Since the southern hemisphere gets dark very quickly these days I decided to
    do it before work and not after work. Daylight is better!

    So out I trooped this morning for the 10 minute job. I'll be back at work in normal
    time I thought. However in my speed I put the sensor back but forgot to put the
    shield cover on. No trouble i thought , just take it off again. BUT to my HORROR,
    ( I 'think' this is what happened) the bolt without the shield goes through further
    than normal. AND I think it ran out of thread and LOCKED up against the little
    grommet like "captive nut" that is in the chassis. The box channel chassi that
    you can't get into. This little captive nut only exudes about 1 mm above the
    surface of the chassis. It's round. No hex head. Nothing to hold onto. With the
    bolt locked up against it , it just SPUN SPUN SPUN and it looked like i'd never get
    the sensor off again! As in the captive nut wasn't **** well secured to the chassis,
    but it would spin in it's socket forever. I Tried to push a screwdriver up against it hard
    as i could as I turned the ratchet wrench. No way. With dirt showering into my eyes
    and sweat building I was furious that I could stuff this up now. I prayed to the universe
    for help/power. I was going to need it. I tried some WD40 spray but still no joy. I lay
    there thinking about it when suddenly I noticed that above me under the floor
    of the vehicle was this little wedge hole that was JUST the right height for me to
    wedge the ratchet arm into while it was connected to the bolt. I wedged it in
    there and wrapped some towel around the wrench as well. Now the bolt could
    be held tight without me touching it. I had 2 arms free. Then I grabbed the screw
    driver and a large, err, HAMMER. I put the screwdriver against the 1mm of
    captive nut visible and gave some sturdy pounds with the hammer. At first not
    much happened except the slow butchering of the captive nut. Then wallah!
    praise God/universe/Allah/whatever. It shifted. Slowly it wound off the bolt.
    I pulled it all off and put it back together properly with the shield in about 5 mins.
    phew!

    Here's the tip:
    Just don't put the sensor back without the shield.


    And alas a quick test drive around the block with no EAS fault.

    have a nice day,
    Paul.
    P38 Red Truck.

  14. #13
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
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    Location
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by paul500
    So ever since I read "this" I had doubts as to if it's possible.
    But I have now seen it's ok for 1995 4.6.
    So It can be done on later models. Later than the classic.
    But up to what I don't know. Perhaps up to 1998 at a guess.
    Perhaps up to more?
    Mine is a 2000, it worked just fine.
    Jim
    2000 NAS HSE
    2005 NAS HSE

  15. #14
    NEWBIE
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    Location
    UK
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    1

    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by redrange
    this is one of the most interesting threads i have read recently. i too have an EAS problem that seems to be centred around the front drivers side, (r/h) i fitted Koni's last year and made the mistake of jumping up and down on the suspension (not litteraly) to get them located as i couldnt compress them.
    since then the front o/s seems higher than it should be and is often looking for its correct hight, hunting up and down when stopped at lights ect!
    i had it checked and no fault found but you know when you know, and as the guy with the testbook turned away it lower it self a good 30mm. think he thought i drunk!
    i have recently had soft fault twice but only when R/R left in acess hight for a while when i been working on it, seems a sensor that may have got pulled a little too far one way is giving trouble at the extreme in the opposite direction! i did explain this to the guys with the testbook and they just discharged the idea as silly saying "they cant be damaged like that" !!
    i been concidering swaping sensors side to side and even though i have the software and the cable i would rather know what may happen before hand!
    from what i have read it seems its possible to swap sensors (1994 P3 without having to recalibrate unless it been done recently which mine hasn't! i think il do it and then probably have a crash course in eas re-calibrating afterwards. LOL!
    hiya red i had a similar problem on mine were as the n/s was 20 m/m lower than the o/s , all my hieght sensors were new ( less than 3mths old ) i checked everything , sprayed all the plugs with contact cleaner the lot !!!!! , still the same , used auto logic to clear the fault 2 or 3 times each time the fault came back , it was then suggested to me to check the multi plug in the l/h footwell , i did this and found one had very slight trace`s of green around the plug end i gave both plugs a liberal spraying with contact cleaner and that has sorted it out , 3 weeks now and still sit level , got to be worth a try .
    rick.

  16. #15
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Posts
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    Re: EAS height sensor calibration advice.

    I have successfully swapped height sensors fronts (left to right) and rears (left to right) (and wrote about it in a previous post of mine) on two different Rovers now, and have had excellent results resolving intermittend height sensor problems unexplainable by air leaks. If you have other strange intermittent problems after swapping, consider obtaining a 'Driver Box' from shupack or similar source. Strange, unexplainable problems including the inability to obtain a selected ride height (continual blinking or soft faults) can be cured by either (sometimes both) solutions.

    ~Brendan

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