Help!! Driver side door wont open!
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Thread: Help!! Driver side door wont open!

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    November 20th, 2007
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    FL
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    148

    Help!! Driver side door wont open!

    I just unlocked my car and got in and drove home and when I tried top get out the door wouldn't open.

    The divers side door wont open from the inside or the outside.

    I took it over to my local Land Rover dealer and they said that when I locked the door in superlock mode the latch turned all the way around and got stuck and now it wont open, they said they have to break the lock and install a new one! costing me $400+

    Anyone have any tips for fixing it myself!! $400 is sooooo much!
    2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE Rutland Red

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  3. #2
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    May 15th, 2007
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    Oregon City, Oregon (few clicks S. of Portland)
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    First off,

    You may need the parts but I wouldn't;
    a) buy them from the dealer
    b)have them install

    You may be able to put up the whole assembly from a wrecker and remove door card and replace yourself. Obviously, getting in your RR from the passenger side won't work long term BUT somebody will chime in with more help. Don't let the dealer rip you off. At the very least, check with indy shop if possible for competitive price for r and r of this assembly.

    There are several breakers (wreckers) of RR P38s out there. Check main site (rangerovers.net) under parts suppliers, etc.
    Doug
    2000 4.6 Vitesse (stock as they get...for now)

  4. #3
    Premium Member paul.adshead's Avatar
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    July 26th, 2006
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    Re: Help!! Driver side door wont open!

    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett20
    I just unlocked my car and got in and drove home and when I tried top get out the door wouldn't open.

    The divers side door wont open from the inside or the outside.

    I took it over to my local Land Rover dealer and they said that when I locked the door in superlock mode the latch turned all the way around and got stuck and now it wont open, they said they have to break the lock and install a new one! costing me $400+

    Anyone have any tips for fixing it myself!! $400 is sooooo much!
    Ignore the dealer. There is an initiation procedure when you become a LR employee - your eyes are ripped out and replaced with $$ signs. Hence from then forwards, all they see is $$ signs whenever anyone approaches...

    Firstly, there may be NO fault what so ever. I've known many a car, where the latch has got a little sticky over time. Try getting someone on the outside of the door whilst you're inside on the seat. Pull the internal release handle, then both of you try and shuttle the door backwards and forwards to free the mechanism.

    Try opening the rear door (- the one behind the drivers door) and spray copious amounts of WD40 or similar into the latch mechanism from the rear. Try locking/unlocking several times, then try the previous paragraph again.

    If nothing, then you've probably looking at needing to take the drivers interior door-card off (- with the door still closed). Firstly, remove the front passengers interior door-card, so you know where/how the driver's door-card is held on.

    Once the drivers door card is off, then best case scenario, is that it is a bad electronic connection in the loom/connector to the lock. On the wire going to the latch, about a foot from the latch, is a connector. Disconnect both halves and again, spray WD40 in there. Try locking/unlocking again. then try 'shuttling' the door back/forth again.

    If still nothing, then you can either get friendly with the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in RAVE and try to power up the latch motors manually. Or if all else fails, then I'd be reading this page:
    http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails...doorlocks.html
    showing how to smash the lock mechanism to get the door open.

    Good luck.
    Paul
    '97 4.6 HSE, LPG dual-fuel, Arnott G3s

  5. #4
    FRESHMAN ROVER
    Join Date
    November 20th, 2007
    Location
    FL
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    148

    Re: Help!! Driver side door wont open!

    Quote Originally Posted by paul.adshead
    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett20
    I just unlocked my car and got in and drove home and when I tried top get out the door wouldn't open.

    The divers side door wont open from the inside or the outside.

    I took it over to my local Land Rover dealer and they said that when I locked the door in superlock mode the latch turned all the way around and got stuck and now it wont open, they said they have to break the lock and install a new one! costing me $400+

    Anyone have any tips for fixing it myself!! $400 is sooooo much!
    Ignore the dealer. There is an initiation procedure when you become a LR employee - your eyes are ripped out and replaced with $$ signs. Hence from then forwards, all they see is $$ signs whenever anyone approaches...

    Firstly, there may be NO fault what so ever. I've known many a car, where the latch has got a little sticky over time. Try getting someone on the outside of the door whilst you're inside on the seat. Pull the internal release handle, then both of you try and shuttle the door backwards and forwards to free the mechanism.

    Try opening the rear door (- the one behind the drivers door) and spray copious amounts of WD40 or similar into the latch mechanism from the rear. Try locking/unlocking several times, then try the previous paragraph again.

    If nothing, then you've probably looking at needing to take the drivers interior door-card off (- with the door still closed). Firstly, remove the front passengers interior door-card, so you know where/how the driver's door-card is held on.

    Once the drivers door card is off, then best case scenario, is that it is a bad electronic connection in the loom/connector to the lock. On the wire going to the latch, about a foot from the latch, is a connector. Disconnect both halves and again, spray WD40 in there. Try locking/unlocking again. then try 'shuttling' the door back/forth again.

    If still nothing, then you can either get friendly with the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in RAVE and try to power up the latch motors manually. Or if all else fails, then I'd be reading this page:
    http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails...doorlocks.html
    showing how to smash the lock mechanism to get the door open.

    Good luck.
    Thank you so much!
    I'll try this.
    2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE Rutland Red

  6. #5
    FRESHMAN ROVER
    Join Date
    November 21st, 2006
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
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    116
    I just replaced mine witha new one from rover connection - 210.00 and the job took about a half hour. My stealer wanted 525.00 for the same switch, gave me bs about fault codes but their was none. Put it in and had no problems.
    97 4.0 SE

  7. #6
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Oregon City, Oregon (few clicks S. of Portland)
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    Works out to shop rate for the dealer of about $600hr......hmmm, sounds about right!
    Doug
    2000 4.6 Vitesse (stock as they get...for now)

  8. #7
    SENIOR ROVER
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    January 29th, 2007
    Location
    Toronto,Canada
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    Canucker. I'm curious-when you changed yours out was the door locked or open. What made you decide to change it. I agree with those crazy prices. I got one from an indi here in t.o. but it was still 380 cdn taxes in. Garrett, if you do get one make sure you order based on your vin # The bosch rangies have a single plug wiring connection and the older ones have 2 plugs but the number of wires is the same but colors slightly different. Someone has posted that they have interchanged them between gems and bosch but they have more guts than I do. BTW if your doors have been locking, unlocking randomly as you have been driving along it is a pretty good sign that the actuator is going or has gone kaput. Canucker you deserve a medal for your repair time.
    2004 Epson green 112k miles few records latest diff folly also 1952 Hough payloader 1959 Nuffield 4DM
    2000 kent green 4.0 SE 180,500 miles and working EAS no service records prior to 121,900 and nov 06
    2003 GMC 1500 AWD window van 5.3 L love it in the snow & rain-anytime [on mich cross-terrains] 165 plus K miles.

  9. #8
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Raleigh, NC 27613
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    check the tech section

    First try what everyone else said but if you can't pull it up by hand it's not electrical.

    Look at this first:

    http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.htm#doorlocks

    I did have this happen on a rear door and I tried everything before the lock finally had to be smashed, cut, ripped out. I'd do this as a last resort.

    I also saw where someone went thru the jamb on the rear door and was able to cut out the latch side.

    Good luck!
    Rob Caulfield
    99 RR
    96 Disco

  10. #9
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    November 21st, 2006
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
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    Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:44 pm Post subject:

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Diff - I started having random locking issues I would unlock, the doors would unlock but the alarm would not turn off, I would lock unlock a few times then all was well. The problem became more common and sometimes it wouldn't unlock. So I knew I had to replace it. When I did it the lock opened but the alarm didnt deactivate. I opened the door set off the alarm, popped the hood undid the siren and batt. then swithced the lock out. No probs ever since, other than my RF reciever going, but that had nothing to do with the new lock, just bad luck.
    97 4.0 SE

  11. #10
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    August 5th, 2007
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    England Hertfordshire
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    at $400 (£200) to open the locked door and replace the latch assembly which alone costs £125 ($250) here in England I think is more than reasonable (the cost above parts doesn't even equate to one Hour labour), this job will not be done in less than 2 Hours start to finish, probably longer, saw though both stems of the striker one at a time carefully, remove card and splash guard, remove and fit new latch assembly, refit splash guard and card, supply and fit new striker, over here striker £3 ($6) approx. If I thought I could get it done here for that price I wouldn't have spent the day doing it myself, though on the other hand booking it in, getting it done and the grief of getting it to the dealer, getting back home, then getting back to pick it up when it's finally done, probably quicker in the long run to DIY as well as cheaper. I believe most dealers here take the back door off to access the striker, judging by the comments when I was trying to locate dealers with strikers in stock, taking even more labour time.
    cheers John
    1999 P38A DHSE Autobiography MKIII Navigation
    1998 P38A DSE (remapped chip)
    2002 L322 Vogue (Bluetooth + MkIV satnav)

  12. #11
    SOPHOMORE ROVER *-jester-*'s Avatar
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    February 6th, 2007
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    East Yorkshire, Great Britain. Driving: 1998 P38a Range Rover 4.0L SE. Age: 38 ...but feel older!
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    Jovinblak's idea is the best I've seen, this link is to his post about it:- http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23623



    .

  13. #12
    LEGACY VENDOR 996TURBO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jovinblak
    at $400 (£200) to open the locked door and replace the latch assembly which alone costs £125 ($250) here in England I think is more than reasonable (the cost above parts doesn't even equate to one Hour labour), this job will not be done in less than 2 Hours start to finish, probably longer, saw though both stems of the striker one at a time carefully, remove card and splash guard, remove and fit new latch assembly, refit splash guard and card, supply and fit new striker, over here striker £3 ($6) approx. If I thought I could get it done here for that price I wouldn't have spent the day doing it myself, though on the other hand booking it in, getting it done and the grief of getting it to the dealer, getting back home, then getting back to pick it up when it's finally done, probably quicker in the long run to DIY as well as cheaper. I believe most dealers here take the back door off to access the striker, judging by the comments when I was trying to locate dealers with strikers in stock, taking even more labour time.
    cheers John
    What is a striker?

    Any photo?

    Thanks

    Florent
    1997 P38 4.6
    LPG
    SD L322 Rack adapted to P38
    DC5000 EAS Compressor
    Arnott Gen3
    RR-EVOLUTION protection for P38 : front diff guard, rear diff guard, steering guard, fuel tank
    32 inch BF KM2 tires
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    H4 Bixenons bulbs

  14. #13
    Premium Member paul.adshead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 996TURBO
    What is a striker?
    The 'metal loop' bolted to the 'B/C' pillar, that the latch in the door lock mechanism, latches onto to secure the door shut.
    Paul
    '97 4.6 HSE, LPG dual-fuel, Arnott G3s

  15. #14
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Help!! Driver side door wont open!

    Absolutely spot on , all fixed now , lucky i suppose .
    Simply pulled door card out at top , drilled a 25 mm hole in top of door frame ( card go's over ) plenty of light let in , saw mechanism , smashed the plastic housing away , sprayed WD40 and 3 in one all around , stuck screw driver in and rattled about, pushed door inwards - opened , lubed again , checked all functions , re assembeld - now right as rain.
    Brilliant - thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett20 View Post
    Thank you so much!
    I'll try this.

  16. #15
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Help!! Driver side door wont open!

    On this site there's some great help at

    http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdet...doorlocks.html

    My 'door jammed' experience may be of relevance - it turned out to be a broken cable and cost £3.99 to fix as follows:

    I bought my '98 Range Rover with a driver's door that wouldn't open. The lock button could physically be lifted to about half its unlock height. The other doors and buttons worked fine. When unlocked by remote, the button would rise to full height and then immediately drop back to half-height. No amount of experiments would find a point where the door would open, using the inside or outside handles. Although the door was closed I could remove enough of the inner panel to look down the window slot and distantly access the latch. I found the the inner handle Bowden cable that connects it to the latch was broken, possibly by previous attempts to open when the latch was stuck. The result was that the spring recoil of the inside handle was not pushing via the cable back to the latch, which was positioned slightly towards the unlatched position. This position wasn't enough to unlatch but had the effect of jamming the button so it could not unlock. With a long coat-hanger wire I poked the latch to the fully latched position and voila! the button could be pulled fully up. Operating the outside handle, it now engaged and opened the door. I then was able to remove the whole panel and access the cable. I replaced it with a cut-down bicycle gear cable, using the end-stop guide fittings from the original. The door now works perfectly.

    As others on this thread have said - nearly always you can fix a stuck door with perseverance and little or no cost!

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