New coolant leak, ideas? TIA

[linuxfreakus]

Also, if you have never replaced the PCV return hoses which run under the manifold and are normally extremely difficult to replace... they will be a simple 5 minute task when you already have everything apart, so consider replacing those too along with the rear manifold cover ... if they go bad they go REALLY bad.

[Mrmerlin]

Brad first you remove the fuel lines and the coil connections easier if your also doing the cam cover gaskets as the coil packs come out,
then the fuelinjector connections,
then the intake manifold,
then the water tubes , use Dow Corning 111 on the O rings this will keep them soft,

after you remove the rear water bridge then you can remove the pipes from the waterpump and it can stay in place if you like.

then the valley pan cover/sealed cover , the new part has the gasket attached better than the original use the DC111 on the rubber of the new gasket as well this will keep it from leaking

Replace the PVC plate and the hoses for it if this has not been previously done
Take pictures so you can refit things.
Use a hair drier , or a hot air gun to heat the plastic tabs of the wire covers along the tops of the intake they will be easier to remove and you might not snap any of them off

[linuxfreakus]

This sounds like a total nightmare of a job

What exactly is this galley thing that I'm needing to replace with a gasket/cover that has 20 bolts securing it... I'm sorry but looking a it in rav I have no clue what it does, never dealt with this part before and just want to make sure I know what everything is before I start pulling the whole thing apart. I'm ordering everything now and will likely do the work on sunday.

Thanks a mill!

The coolant system pumps coolant through a "gallery" in the V of the engine, I assume to make sure all parts of the engine block get cooled evenly. The cover is what keeps the coolant inside. Yes there are a lot of bolts on it, but they are not torqued very much... easy to remove. The hard parts will be getting the tiny impossible to see/reach clips on the fuel injectors (managed to get them off using a dental pick). And the rear crossover pipe, the rest is not that bad IMO. Be careful to not let anything fall inside while the intake manifold is removed. I put masking tape over the holes and cleaned everything before replacing so that nothing would get pushed in while reseating, etc.. and also just so it would be shiny

[brad s1]

Totally forgot about having to deal with fuel lines... Easy way to depressurize the system? On my other car you'd turn a valve and let the pressure bleed, on this one I have no clue obviously... So I don't need to remove the water pump/fan to do this? I just put a new one in last summer so it's probably a ways away from needing adjustment/replacement.

[brad s1]

Why in gods name would they put a cover on this thing? Why would you even need to access this area any other time than when the part itself fails and it needs replacement.

Also thanks a lot for the help guys, getting a much clearer picture of what to expect

[Mrmerlin]

they did this so the service de3partment would have work to do it replaces the timing belt RnR

[linuxfreakus]

Not really sure why it has a cover... probably production cost related I would imagine.