The
Lake Lahontan Expedition
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Includes all the locations described in these pages and more. |
Next morning, we were reluctant to leave our spectacular camp spot
high
on the ancient spit overlooking the Carson Sink. Eventually dragging
ourselves
away, we descended the steep road back to lakebed level and visited
more
old beaches along the Stillwater Range, notably at Grimes Canyon, where
the road ascended a staircase constructed of old beaches. We then
braced ourselves to
tackle
the sand dune barrier separating us from the vast Carson Sink playa.
The road across the dunes was primitive at best, and the
GMC got stuck in the sand, but eventually we all made it to the dry
lakebed.
It was eerie to think of this ground being under 500 feet of water not
so very long ago!
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overlooking the Carson Sink (Left) |
to get to the Carson Sink Playa beyond |
To skirt the naval bombing range in the middle of the playa, we had
to cross many more miles of bare lake bottom before
reaching
terra
firma at the foot of the West Humboldt Range. I managed to find the 4WD
“road” across the playa marked on the map, but it kept disappearing, so
we had to take to the bare playa after the style used in modern
automobile advertisements. The difference is that this playa was seldom
visited by anyone, and was nowhere near as level and predictable as the
Black Rock Desert, for example. So, we had to rely on Marvin’s
instincts, developed during years of training in the Black
Rock, to find us a path where we might not sink in. Those of us who had
viewed the video of his daring assaults on the snow-covered road to the
viewpoint above Black Rock Point were not reassured that we would again
see terra firma, but we
stuck together and finally reached the northwest “shore” of the Sink,
formed by the lower slopes of the remote West Humboldt Range.
Greeting us here was a spectacular view
of the steps cut into the Range by wave action as the
ancient lake
stabilized at successively lower levels after reaching its peak. An
extremely steep and ancient 4WD mining road which had not been used for
many years climbed this “staircase” to
the top of the
range, and several of the vehicles needed a tug to surmount a
particularly gnarly
“step”. Concern arose about potential damage to the GMC that could
result
from continuing, so camp was made for the night at an intermediate
plateau
about halfway up the staircase.
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Towards the West Humboldt Range |
Note horizontal wave-cut beach lines on side of hill |
By now the daily camping routine was becoming established, with each
participant utilizing his own idiosyncratic solution. Jay and David
slept
in collapsible “tent cots”, which kept out the elements as well as the
mosquitoes. Marvin had his classic “Oregon Trail” rooftop tent, while
Lynn
slept in his permanent bunk in his vehicle. Joe and Sally alternated
between
a tent and the open air, depending on the weather, while I luxuriated
inside
my vehicle with one of the back seats folded down. Providing amusement
for the gathered throngs was the rest of my Range Rover routine
including
the evening shower and dressing for dinner before the obligatory round
of margaritas and finger snacks. That night a storm appeared, but
fortunately
held off long enough for dinner to be completed.